A couple days of cragging

I got back to Squamish on Tuesday night and ended up getting together with Trang (a friend from Girl's Rock) and her boyfriend for some cragging at the bluffs. We went up to Pixi Corner and rapped down onto Jaberwocky. I thought about leading it, but the start was just too intimidating. But I brought my rack up with me and placed gear and if I could get past the start (which I did manage to do clean, but it would have been freaky on lead!), I know I could easily lead that route. Maybe next time. Then Dave put up Pixi Corner, Trang pink pointed it, and I cleaned it. The Bluffs were actually pretty crowded, so we headed back toward the parking lot to Boulder Gully in the Car Park Crags area. I got the onsight of Picket Line (5.9) and was very happy to feel calm and relaxed on lead even through the tricky section. Dave put up Cold Comfort (5.9) which was a really fun finger crack with loads of ledges for feet. After that, we called it a day and I went for a swim in the lake.

Thursday, Raphael and I had plans to go up the Grand Wall and I was really looking forward to it! But it was *really* crowded and so we opted to do some cragging around the base instead. We started with The Exasperater. Leading the first pitch of that was probably my proudest moment last year. But I let Raphael take the lead this time. I wish I could say it was out of generosity, but it was just out of fear and nervousness. He linked the two pitches and I was surprised at how easy it felt to me on TR. I followed the second pitch (10c) last year and really struggled on it and hung on the rope several times. This time, I just walked up it pretty easily and didn't even have a problem standing and cleaning gear. Which is both good and bad -- it means I'm becoming a better climber, but I'm leading a grade or two below my real lead ability. My head is still pretty messed up from the fall last year. But I've led a few 10's (The Zip, Nubile Woman) since getting up here and I felt nice and comfy on the 5.9 the day before. I know it'll come back with time. We also did Apron Strings (p1, 10b; p2, 5.9) and then The Flake (10b). After that we called it a day.